After over 24 hours of plane flight, etc., me and my father arrived in Harare to meet our driver, who took us to Bronte Hotel. Colonial, beautiful and rightfully named the Garden Hotel in the city centre. After a short stroll around the city, until it got dark, we have returned to our hotel’s bar to enjoy Zambezi beer, local Zimbabwean brew, which is very light and refreshing, a wonderful thing. Later we went to the restaurant, where after a small and insignificant trouble with ordering vegetarian food for me that was served with bacon, which was remade, we enjoyed ourselves. Wonderful food and even better South African wine to flush it with. We tried to talk, but we were very soon asleep, which on the other hand allowed us to wake up quite early the next morning.


After a quick shower, we had a very light breakfast and packed ourselves. Then I went on a lone stroll around the wonderful gardens of the hotel, filled with art and crafted metal animals. You can’t even imagine how the garden smelt, full of flowers, trees, exoticness – and in the middle of a huge city, which Harare grew to be.

At 10 we left for the airport, where we waited for forty minutes to no avail and finally managed to find out that Air Zimbabwe no longer flies. We were stuck on the airport with little or no options to consider – it’s over 800 km by road, and nothing flies the distance. We would have to fly over to Johannesburg, and the next day at 11 fly to Victoria Falls, loosing our night in Falls and having to replace the visas, etc. Huge burden. Instead, we chose a less comfortable, more demanding and definitely more adventurous car rental. We would have to cover the distance of over 800km, on road resembling the 1990s ones in Poland, and after sunset – in total darkness. And I mean darkness. It’s Africa, there’s no light halo from the cities, there’s just stars and your headlamps. Yet due to my father’s amazing driving, we managed to reach Victoria Falls at 22, after about 10 hours drive.

We checked into our lodge and finished the evening with a couple of Zambezi’s, discovering the lodge, which is located on a hill, facing sunset and a considerable waterhole. More about the waterhole to come. Yet, having found our beds tightly surrounded by a mosquito net, we decided to fall sleep with windows open, to a cannonade of African night’s sounds: cicadas, birds, some monkey howling… Unfortunately, later some drunk people joined, but we managed to sleep wonderfully until about 7, where my father woke me up ‘marabouts! and something! come and look!’ so I got up, found out that the something where warthogs and wrote this note with the view on the waterhole.